Westward Ho

Kimmeridge BayWell not that far west, more west-ish, in Dorset. The weather is glorious and Kimmeridge Bay is laid out in all its Jurassic glory. Today we cycle (well, I cycle and John walks as years of neglect have taken their toll on his bike) to the pretty thatched village of Kimmeridge to have lunch and visit the Etches Collection, a ‘multimillion pound’ museum of fossils.

Luckily, lunch is excellent. Luckily because Clavell’s Cafe is the only place to eat for miles around. We don’t visit the museum, entry £8 each. We’re not mean or anything, but £16 to look at some old fossils seems a bit steep. Instead, we spend the £16 on coffee and sticky toffee pudding back at Clavell’s. Oh stop it. We’re on holiday.

Clavell's CafeWe are staying at a site on the Smedmore Estate and it’s incredibly peaceful here. Pheasants poke about in the grass like chickens and the only sounds are natural ones; wind, sea, birdsong, oh and the odd crack of a shotgun which usually signals the disappearance of one of the pheasants. There’s no shower block, no loos, just a fresh water supply and somewhere to put nasty, smelly stuff. And very efficient recycling bins. Simple, quiet and surrounded by beautiful rolling countryside.

The corollary of all this peace and quiet is that as well as Clavell’s being the only place to eat, the nearest place to buy food supplies is a Spar in Corfe, an exhausting six mile slog by bike up and down a hilly, narrow lane,  or all the upheaval of going in Gertie. So we do what all wild campers do. We order a delivery from Sainsbury’s. We don’t need much so to get the order over £40 we are forced to buy a bottle of gin. And tonic. And limes. And lemons. Goodness wild camping is tough (that’s a joke, by the way.)

Clavell's Tower and Kimmeridge BayNotes for campers: We stayed at Smedmore Caravan Site, a Caravan Club affiliated site. Seven nights with electric hook up was £105. Don’t follow a satnav for the last few miles as it may lead you down a very narrow lane with no passing places, with a 1:5 hill with steep drops to the side. Ask for directions from the site office when you book. It really is a  bit remote so it might be a good idea to bring adequate supplies of food and drink with you, or you too may find yourself compelled to buy gin…